Ayutthaya

A squirrel with reddish-brown fur and a white belly is on a tree trunk.

Golden Mountain

Prayer bells with red ribbons and tags hanging at a temple, with Thai and buddhist flags in the background.

Today was a tourist day! After enjoying the masked dance in the royal theatre I made my way up the Golden Mountain Wat Saket Ratchawora Mahawihan. It is 344 small steps (probably not DIN 18065) to the top where a golden Pagoda crowns the artificial mountain.

View of Wat Saket and the Golden Mount in Bangkok, with temple rooftops and white stupas in the foreground.

Along the way there are lots of interesting corners and tidbits of information sprinkled throughout. Many many buddha statues but also interesting information about the vultures that lived here in the 19th century during cholera times. The view from the top is worth the 100THB entrance fee alone.

Black and white photo of a small Buddha shrine nestled in a wall alcove, surrounded by dense foliage and wooden stools.

Khim

A woman in traditional outfit playing a thai dulcimer.

Coffee at Kinokuniya

A bright coffee shop counter with wooden shelves displaying coffee beans, brewing equipment, and pastries, under “K COFFEE” and “UCC” signs.

Laundry Day

Laundry machines in a self service laundromat

Being on the road this long lends itself to a certain rhythm. Not every hostel or hotel has a laundry service or some of them charge outrageous per-piece prices I am not willing to pay. Usually there is a full service laundry shop nearby wherein the workers will wash, dry and fold all your laundry until the next day for a per kg price.I used many such shops in the Philippines and in Vietnam. Always very happy with the result and the easy access of them.

In rare cases I will do my laundry in a laundromat myself. Here in Silom I don’t really have any good laundry services nearby and even the closest self-service laundry is 10-minute walk. No problem: just jump on a grab bike or walk the short distance up to Decho Road.

In a small side street in the back houses is a glorious laundromat. The machines are quick and easy to operate with signage being clear and in English. You buy your detergent from a vending machine on the wall for a mere 5THB. You then spend 60THB for the washing cycle and 50THB for the drier. I won’t put some shirts in the drier in risk of shrinking them to doll sizes.

The wash takes 25 minutes. Just enough time to go around the corner and enjoy a nice hot bowl of duck noodles and have a short chat with the duck noodle lady who speaks English very well. Then back to the laundry and change my clothes from the washer to the drier. Another 28 minutes to go I check out the assorted goods of the 7-11 around the corner. After cooling down inside and buying water, vitamin-c drink or to be honest any kind of snack I head back to the laundry a last time. I bundle up all my fresh clothes and head back to my accommodation.

I do this about once a week and usually am done in about 1.5 hours. Not as easy as having a washer and drier in the apartment with me, but I find it to be soothing activity that brings back a bit of structure into this current vagabond life of mine.

Sri Maha Mariamman Temple

Colorful tops on the fence to a hindu temple.

Hungry I stumble down the Si Lom Road in search for food. I smell the familiar spices of south Indian cookery. I get lucky next to the Sri Maha Mariamman Temple. A huge Masala Dosa being brought to my temple. Filled with lots of potatoes. I revel in memories of my trip down to Bengaluru a couple of years ago. Sweat running down my back. The heat of the chilis combines with the unrelenting humidity of rainy season.

Silom Sathorn

A street food stall selling prepared cups of rice with toppings. This area is probably my favorite. Vendors sell prepared food in bento boxes or cups. Come noon workers from the nearby business towers swarm the street. Even then, you’ll find plenty of quiet backstreets. The locals seem relaxed and there is plenty to explore.

On the BTS

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I am happy that I am staying close to the BTS. When I fancy to go somewhere I can just jump on the train. They are frequent, cool and cheap.

Eternal Soup, Ancient Noodles and Taxes

A bustling, open-air Thai kitchen where several cooks work around a large, simmering cauldron of stew.

Only a five-minute walk through the blistering midday heat is a very interesting store that always garners quite a large line. I also decided to watch for a little while. But in the end didn’t want to wait 30 to 60 minutes in the scorching heat for a bowl of this soup. It is famous because it allegedly is the same continuous soup for 50 years. It is Sunday and the foreigner crowd here seems even bigger today. I might try them one day. But not today.

I finally wander off to a nearby mall to eat a some eternal noodles in a blissfully airconditioned room. Why they were called eternal was not revealed to me but they were darker than other noodles I had here so maybe these were made with whole grain? In any case, dining here was a great idea not only for my sensitive skin but also because the ancient noodles were delicious. The large number of locals confirmed my suspicion that this restaurant was not only cheap but also well regarded.

A bustling Thai food court with a large “THAI FOOD” sign in Japanese, Thai, and English hanging over the dining area.

I feel the humidity rising while I walk home. Was that a drop?

While I sit on the balcony of my apartment I suddenly hear the sound of wind blowing very strong through the palms and the scaffolding of the nearby construction site. It begins to pour like I have never seen before. Best to get inside.

A view from a balcony overlooking two large high-rise buildings covered in scaffolding and construction cranes.

After all that hard work of eating, reading and watching YouTube I finally can do something I was looking forward to all weekend: my taxes. Thanks to Elster I am able to do these from Thailand no problem. I finally press submit on the tax form. No 10 seconds later the electricity stops working. A black-out. Well then, back to my book.

Boat Noodles

Thai boat noodles with beef, meatballs, herbs, and a crispy wonton, served in a black bowl with soup on the side.